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I like it, it likes me.(2000 and 2017) Limestone high passes and the grand tour.

Years of trad climbing being my favorite and limestone a bit of a nightmare for the feet I had decided I was going to like Limestone now. Certainly the ambiance is great and the colours so full of summer hope with pastel shades and lightness. Also, keen on skilfull technical climbing through having had a long time to consider it, if that needed sport climbing to be safer I had moved to agree with it.
Previously I felt it destroyed the mental state needed to deal with a runout or difficult gear. The unknown climbing element of trad was replaced with a 3 m bolt followed by a 2m or 3m bolt. My decision to love it was mentally planned for ahead of my work in Italy and not only did I find there were sport crags but mountain outcrops high up of the light stuff too, unbolted and just natural features like the fossilised past they are supposed to be. I found this ridge that I was at different places and sections about 10 times with a really special cliff.
Several times I came back through this large limestone barrier and that set the scene for my picture 'On High'. Long walks in Scotland had opened the mind in this way to really long days walking but now the landscapes on my one day and a half days off were in a truly impossible place. This seems less foreign now and less distractingly beautiful but I remember how it felt like an opportunity as well. At times I could just concentrate on my good fortune and at others the possibility opened the door to stories.

This is a time travel observation so you would not necessarily agree with me. The town is a gorgeous long seaside sweep and key location before the last miles in Italy. 17 years before it did not look like this at all though. I am not sure how but not did Milan which in 2000 was built around a very modern, super sleek and quiet media outlet.

ventimiglia

Factually there is also the different times of the year however, April versus October. Then the story starts for real. When cycling, signposts really can send you to a different place more often than speeding along in a car which generally refuses to budge from the traffic without causing a lot of trouble. You can be in a different world without knowing for the duration.

Further vists to Italy and the south of France in 2017 saw me realise this was the Grand Tour taken since the Renaissance times by the sons and daughters of the wealthy, hosted and toasted abroad. I could see their art interests and realise I too was part of an evolved diaspora. To have an interest in the language and culture was my direct link. The coastal region near Genoa is supported and patronised from inland to the beaches and bars, from the families and friends in colleges today who have British connections. I had learnt this from my 2000 language textbook but I did not know then of the grand tour. I biked past buildings in Genoa which I imagined had for centuries been the Anglo-Italian language schools. This vist did not make me in any way feel I could personally knock on any doors. As in my prior visit the connection was modern and tradition has vitality but it was not obvious for someone passing through who might be who. A language school would be the most likely actual venue from the renaissance through to today I thought. Maybe a consulate though, large residence or collection of villas in reality. Art departments are in Venice in particular for British students I had known personally. I think other Europeans and nations have more cultural connections now here now. The British establishment probably no longer represent themselves in the upper classes in large numbers so British people are effectively Italians with heritage. Still the grand tour, I wondered if my posh upbringing which was intermittent as I saw it was something I again had disappointingly let down by a humble fly-by. The work I did in Italy was a in a way reinvention of the old ways however. It was a school connection forged on the spot by the founder, a visionary idea taken without reservation it seemed by our hosts and we worked with a non-stop welcome in an outdoor tent camp for British schools.

The first long view on the Gran Paradiso ridge just swallows you and spits your eyeballs back in just like that. Really it is not to be avoided. When instead you need so much kit for traditional Mont Blanc cold nights this will never leave you as a find.

Lordsrake

But I digress to reality when it is the fiction spurred from these fantastic scenes that I mostly have been creative later with. I was definitely fit and these almost weekly trips close on 15 hours long with at least 2000m of ascent in quiet summer baked wonderous mountain terrain. The first site of excitement was the obstacle where I found the most startling sight. Almost fear but 270 degrees vertiginous suddenly about me was so captivating after 100s of metres of ascent and had a lifetime best mountain view and exposure in one. I had come up steep chasse interdit pine slopes. This scene I have repeatedly failed to paint but still I think it is worthwhile as it keeps the scene alive. Gran Paradiso, though in fact the first summit on the ridge, not the big peak itself and from imagination rather than photos or sketches)
A mysterious large limestone barrier was the last obstacle, recreated in my artwork also as fantasy imagination. It was quite difficult to view easily (On High). It is encountered almost back home again at the first summit at 1500m on a flank overlapping a ridgeline again in woodland. Moody, most definitely an obstacle and as massive and creamy delicious as limestone can be. Soft round edges and big features which invite but can become so quickly safely impassable. The roundedness almost feels deceptively like a soft blancmange landing but it is friction, not pillows which are paramount when bouldering at 20m for the joy of it and the landing would be rock and scree.

On High. What is it about climbing, serious climbing that means you do something because you have been captured by the sport and learned the techniques and how to use the equipment. Then you go high up and it might be hard but you don't even consider it a risk. Here on limestone over brash tree filled scree gullies as visted in 2000 at 1500m.

On HIGH
I think I should describe this ridge I so loved. The majority otherwise after the trees is superbly open but due to scale and rocky nature still not predictable. Then there is the map itself which did not prepare me for an impossible summit. Truly nobody could get there I am sure, and the name is no name, hint given. I envisioned the famous Grandes Jorasses and the point Whymper link that I once read of as a treacherous tottering boulder ridge when ascended in the past. This just looks like one explosion after another, not worth any attempt.
Mention most impressively goes to La Grivola which is absolutely fantastic and marches out to make a barrier to the view that would take you to Gran Paradiso. With wildly massive, impossible to feel comfortable looking at rhombus faces interlacing to a long long awkward ridge. Far better to stick to it unless in excellent climbing form than the faces themselves by its emotional sight. I guess many people climb with an emotional edge and it is impossible to tell how awkward a face it at a distance but the overall impression couldn’t be more perfectly incongruous and off balance, not of course that it is one giant step up. I suppose what I was looking for was an escape route. Not from the North. Impressive and seductive.

Julia, that is how you pronounce g in Italian or so I was convinced. Paradise in April. I arrived a fortnight before the beach was opened. Beach access is a right can of worms in Italy, also the East of mediterannean France. I feel it would be better to have free access but all refreshmnent was given free too on this lucky occassion by a restaurant who appreciated my passing with a very bright sense of humour.

laiguelglia

This time I was just before the season start whereas 2000 was watching the deck chairs being taken off the beach for the last time in the year. (Resort town Laigueglia)

I revisited the tour in 2017 when I chose to enter the Cannes triathlon choosing to experience some of Italy that had so captivated me before. From Milan airport when only the coastal campsites were open I made my way close to the route of 17 years before into France to race. I even undertook to repeat the climb over the top of Monaco by a fateful acceptance of the need to repeat the error. Again also my diary was an artists diary but not stored images this time as I made an effort to capture a picture like this each day. It was more ambitious than even I had anticipatied but I was fortunate with the hot and dry early season and had it seems managed to put back together decent enough Italian. Despite overwhelming friendliness and formal politeness that is so decent and sincere Europe had changed and it was intermittently quite hostile to travelling in a significant fashion. It is not to be underestimated how much fun it is to bike tour, however the pace gets forced when you have been pickpocketed or robbed or sneered at as then moving on is urgent and without preparation. That travel is such a big industry yet campsites have withered away in so many places is a big feature. With cars and less public transport many in the sports world do also not camp as they hotel and fly. Is it not right to be nipping about 800 miles only in a weekend too casually.
Cannes was a flight only due to not having a travel partner for triathlon and instead of a bus. Camping is a good carbon payback. Nature controls the day as cooking is rooted to a stove and what you carry. Daylight becomes a major factor in your mind and is easy to adapt to. The way cannot be demanded so much but as a need to follow clues or specific roads on a bike. Local snippets of information I hold all day and then get a hand from nature to enjoy myself anyway by already being out there. Concentration on the hill or makes you go further, darker, wet. It is sad that so few cars are on the road this month of covid 19 as I write but every day brings a cyclist hit and run in the news feed. I wonder if I am reading troll reports or there is anger against the environment in turn against the people who want to do normal good natural things. Is there provocation going on? Certainly it is not easy and I want to finish my job applications or get self employment as planned, be with positive people returning the economy from petrol and fast food nihilist.

Further to this I realise the camping facilities are down because camping for free is on the up. In a disturbing parallel to the footloose dream, many are not chasing a dream or an adventure but escaping conflict and the facilities are market and not refugee built and financed. This was apparent in Italy but I had not realised how much it affected the camping until finding barely a couple of the sites that were on the map in Normandy 2024.

The Duel, not the Dune or the Jewel. This was meant to be a futurist concept but I didn't find how to present enough detail for it to be a picture instead of a sketch. Because it is a cliff some sensation of gravity would have been good. It is still on my mind. Also the lunacy of the long futuristic feeling climb yet with a rope, I could not see how to make it safe and so again unrealistic. But some climbing is beyond the pale and it will be realised by someone.

Little Loch Broom

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